Women's Fashions of the Late Victorian Era

The base of the woman's outfit was her undergarments. They formed the outline of the woman's dress and emphasized the ideal long body with a tiny waist. The undergarments included the crinoline, which was constructed of calico and extended by whale-bones or flexible steel (Hill et al. 170), or petticoats. Often, the crinoline was cut flat across in the front and larger in the back. This created the illusion of the women standing in front of their dress. Along with them drawers or knickerboxers, camisole, chemise, bustle, bust bodice or corsets were worn. The bustle was worn to conceal the lower body and form the largeness of the back of the skirt, which at one point it was so sizable that it formed a right angel with the natural waistline (Hill et al. 186). Petticoats and drawers of red flannel were worn during the beginning of the era, with red stockings to match. The petticoat was often worn longer in back, to form a train coming out from under the skirt. All undergarments helped form the outline for the overdress. The corset formed the hips and bust to emphasize their roundness. The length of the corset varied throughout the era, becoming longer as the period went on. The bust bodice was laced in front and back and boned on either side. The drawers and knickerboxers were sometimes trimmed with lace. Stockings were also worn to match the dress or undergarments in color and texture. They came in many colors and textures, but mostly wool or cotton for day and silk for evening. Some stockings were decorated with embroidery or stripes. Stockings were held up with garters, but later replaced by suspenders, which attached to the corset.

Over the many undergarments was, of course, the dress. It was worn in two pieces, a separate bodice and skirt, connected with hooks or ties with eye holes. Sometimes a blouse was worn in place of the bodice. Throughout the time period, the styles of sleeves were changing. At the beginning of the era, the style of tight sleeves at top and full at the wrist was popular. Later, tight-fitting sleeves from shoulder to wrist were fashionable. Toward the end of the era, some sleeves were cut anywhere from three-quarter length to full length and gathered, pleated or puffed above the elbow and tight from the elbow down. The style of the bodice regardless, was always tight fitting, keeping with the line of the corset. The neckline was worn in a high v-neck, a high neck with a stand-up collar (Cassin-Scott 138), or with a military collar (Hill et al. 186). The length of the bodice varied, sometimes worn long, reaching below hip level. Toward the end of the Victorian Era, the bodice spread out from the natural waistline to form a V-shape. The waistline also varied, worn high around 1870 and reaching below the hip level in 1880 to its natural position in 1886 (Tortora et al. 256 & 262). A basque or sash was worn to hide the joining of the bodice to the skirt, and belts were also worn (Blum 293).

The skirt was worn in many different styles throughout the time period. Either one or two skirts were worn. Hems were sometimes gathered up the side seams and decorated. When two skirts were worn, the underskirt was longer, forming a short train, with the top skirt forming an apron. The underskirt was also worn flared from the knees down to create fullness. The back of the skirt was worn large, to fit over the bustle. Around 1880, the skirt was cut narrow all around the body, forming a slim outline. A variety of different decorations were worn on the dress. Such decorations were darker than the color of the dress or a richer texture, and were stripes, braiding, piping, bows, ribbons, pleating, velvet trimmings, or large buttons. The dress was also worn in many different colors, from pastels to darker colors; varying shades of green were very popular.

Boots and shoes were almost always worn with heels and pointed or squared toes. Decorations included ornamental holes to show off stockings, buckles, bows, buttons, or laces (Wilcox, Footwear 149). Accessories added to the elaborateness of the outfit. Capes, shawls, cloaks, mantles, scarves and little aprons were worn. Also, gloves and parasols were popular. Parasols had china or crystal handles and muffs were sometimes made of birdsŐ feathers. Purses were sometimes attached to the waist belt. Large brooches were worn at the throat and large or small earrings were also worn. Tortoiseshell combs were fashionably worn in the hair. Boas were also worn and made of fur or feathers.

The hair was periodically worn in a style to reflect the dress, which also made the hairstyle very complicated. It was worn thick, long and luxuriant and in many different arrangements. One popular style was center parted, waved and occasionally loosely drawn back to cover the ears or worn to show off the ears and arranged in a large chignon, bun, ringlets or massive looped up braids (Baines 50). The front hair was worn frizzed or curled to form a fringe now and then. At times false hair was worn with real hair (Hill et al. 178). When the hair was worn large it was to give the effect of enlarging the size of the back of the head. Hats were also an important part of the outfit. They were decorated with feathers, flowers, ribbons, lace, embroidery and buckles. Hats were tied under the chin with ribbons or worn with hat pins to keep them in place. They were worn on the top or back of the head or tipped forward. Brims were generally small and sometimes curling or up turned in front. The hat itself was usually small, although around 1886 large, tall hats were fashionable.