Men's Fashions of the Late Victorian Era

Over the undergarments came the man's shirt and neckwear. In the midpoint of the century, about 1860, white became the choice color of most shirts (Hill et al.76). White was the mark of a Victorian gentleman and showed high class. The ruffles of the early period disappeared during daytime wear, yet some embroidering continued (Baines 133). The necklines of the shirts lowered and the collars remained high. The very tips of the collars were turned over to give a bit of comfort, but many of the necklines still remained stiff and restrictive. Also in the 1860s disposable collars and cuffs made of linen bonded to paper became available (Peacock 28). These paper collars and cuffs were to be worn a short while and then disposed of. The conveniences of these collars made them a popular choice in the 1860s. Over many of the stiff collars men wore cravats, better known as neck clothes (Tortora et al. 231). They were tied in bows in the front and were fastened in the back by a buckle. Bow ties also became popular for evening wear in the 1860s. When the 1870s hit, color and patterns were added to shirts and necklines. Polka dots and pinstripes became fashionable for daytime and country wear. Collars still remained high, but were turned back for a winged affect. The winged collar, also known as "gates ajar" continued to be worn for many years (Brooke 120). The Ascot puff, whose origin was in the 1840s, became stylish. The Ascot was responsible for the great vogue of the ready-made cravats and was made of heavy, colorful silks (Payne 451). Bow ties were largely replaced by a new style of ties called the four-in-hands. Four-in-hands are best described as an early version of the tie men of the twentieth century wear. The last two decades of the era showed and increase in comfort and informality of shirts and collars. The shirts' collars were still worn stiff, but were turned even more. Collegiate stripes was a popular print on many of the four-in-hands. The informal look remained the style until the end of the century.

Over the man's shirt and neckwear was his waistcoat or vest. Throughout the late Victorian period, waistcoats remained relativity similar for daytime wear. Daytime waistcoats ended above the natural waist and appeared either single or double-vested (Haug). The double-breasted style had lapels that were wider than the single-breasted style. For evening wear, the waistcoats were longer and single-breasted. Brocades, striped satin with floral patterns, textured, dotted velvet, and paisley prints were among the fabrics used for many of the era's waistcoats (d'Assaily 340).

The next piece of clothing the late Victorian period man wore was the coat, the most predominate piece of the man's costume. In the early 1860s the sack coat appeared, which closely resembles the man's coat today (Laver 95). The coat was boxy and had long sleeves, as well as no defined waistline. Another variation in the 1860s and 1870s was the frock coat. This coat, unlike the sack, was fitted through the torso and had a defined waistline, which loosened throughout the century (Wrinkler). The coats were long and ended around knee length. For evening wear, dress or tail coats were worn. The tail coat was a short coat with a square "cut in" in the front with tails in the back (Wilcox Costume 294). These coats were mostly black and some had velvet lapels. The tail coat was never buttoned to show the waistcoat. The tail coat had a low closing and wide lapels (Wilcox Costume 295). Contrasting fabric, usually heavy silk, was used to show distinction between the waistcoat and the tail coats.

In the 1880s and 1890s the style of both daytime and evening coats changed. In the daytime wear frock coats remained popular until the late 1890s, when they were replaced by the morning coat. The morning coat curved above the waist, thus displaying the lower portion of the waistcoat (Wilcox Costume 299). Sack coats continued to remain fashionable through the last two decades. The sack coat, which had no waist seam was worn either double or single-breasted. Another daytime style was the reefer coat, which was similar in style to the sack coat, but was square and had the front double-breasted with larger lapels (Baines 129). For evening wear, tail coats remained popular throughout the 1880s and 1890s. The tails stayed about knee length and narrower at the bottom than top. The later style of the tail coat was designed with a higher closing, with three buttons instead of the traditional one that was popular in the earlier decades (Haug). Dress coats were once again buttoned, making the waistcoat or vest no longer visible. In the 1880s the dress sack coat, or tuxedo first appeared. The tuxedo was best described as a dress coat without tails. The tuxedo was a compromise in formality between the tail coat and the sack coat. It's popularity was gained overseas, when it was first worn in Tuxedo, New York, where it later gained its name tuxedo (Payne 467).

Another important piece of clothing worn by men in the Late Victorian Period was the trouser. In the 1860s and 1870s trousers were worn close to the leg and long enough to reach the heels of shoes. The pegged-top style was also popular. This style of trousers were wider at the top and tapered gradually to the ankle. For daytime, some of the trousers were striped or checked fabrics in an array of colors. Knickerbockers, a sports garment, also became popular (Payne 457). "Knickers," as they were commonly called, were cut with loose legs and were belted into a band that buckled below the knee. "Knickers" were worn with knee-high stockings. Suspenders were necessary to keep trousers and "knickers" in place, yet some trousers were constructed with tab and buckle in the waistband. For evening wear of the 1860s and 1870s, trousers were similar except that black was the color of choice. In the last part of the century, trousers appeared more conformable and center creases appeared for the first time (Payne 450). The trousers became wider for daytime attire and narrower for evening. Prints and plaids continued to be stylish during the daytime, while solid black was fashionable for evening trouser wear.

Over the entire outfit came the paletot or overcoat (Totora et al. 205). In the 1860s and 1870s the trend towards looser, more conformable clothing was evident. Some paletots had a fitted, defined waist, such as a frock overcoat, while others had no clear waistline definition. Capes, such as the Inverness and Raglan, were worn like large loose overcoats (Kidwell et al. 169). Men also wore the Mackintosh, a waterproof coat (Laver 99). As the century went on the overcoats got longer with velvet or fur trimmed collars.

Another aspect of fashion of the late Victorian period man's costume was his hat and hair dress. Hair was worn full and waved over and in front of the ears and trimmed at the neck in the 1860s. Both beards and the clean-shaven look was popular. Mustaches were popular with the ends waxed and curled (Peacock 89). Both straw hats and narrow brim hats were fashionable in the 1860s. In the 1870s the hair and beards became shorter. The top hat became increasingly stylish, along with the still fashionable straw hat. At the end of the century, short hair with a side part was most popular with a clean shaven face. Top hats continued their popularity all the way into the turn of the century. Also, the derby hat gained popularity in the end of the century. The derby was a low, soft hat with the crown creased in the back (Wilcox Costume 295). The deerstalker or better known as the "Sherlock Holmes Style" hat was the last type of hat to have gained popularity in the 1800s (Baines 128).

The final aspect of the man's costume was his footwear. Buttoned shoes, for the first time, were introduced in the 1860s (Wilcox, Footwear 151). Half boots were worn with leggings buttoned over the top and laced on the inside. Shoes of the 1870s followed a conservative look. They were square-toed, heeled, and smoothly polished. The low laced shoe, or the early tennis shoe, was worn for sporting events. Rubber soles, for first time, were able to be attached to the soles of the footwear (Wilcox, Footwear 155). As the century went on the shoes became slimmer with a higher heel and patent leather. By the turn of the century, shoes had become extremely slender and the majority were buttoned (Wilcox, Footwear 152).